I sat for 3 days in a huge Russian Orthodox Cathedral,
watching and waiting to see what God might show me. I sat, prayed, and waited.
God had told me to come to this strange monument to 19th century
Russian preeminence in the heart of St. Petersburg. It was an odd place to
come. I dislike cities, avoid tourist destinations, and feel no particular draw
to Russia. Yet there I was, waiting for an appointment with God-knows-what.
On the third day, I looked across the cavernous room where I
was perched on a windowsill and I saw someone who piqued my curiosity. A young
man with a man with a long beard and reddish blond hair sat muttering quietly
to the ceiling. A Russian bible sat open in his lap. His bony frame fit awkwardly
in a pinstripe suit. I admired him from a distance, obviously a young man of
deep religious devotion. Like me, he was a pilgrim on a journey with his faith.
I wondered quietly to myself if this was my appointment, to meet this young
man. Soon he crossed himself, stood up, and filed into the long line, waiting
his turn to kiss the icon of the Lady of Kazan. After a long time, I watched
shuffle out of the church. I followed at a distance.

Outside the Cathedral, a disheveled man with sharp eyes and
strong features held his hand out for spare change. I by him, looking at the
ground, but something stopped me. I looked back and saw that his ankle looked
badly disfigured and I noticed the cane he walked with. Something in me
stirred. Maybe I should pray for this guy. I stood there uncertain for half an
eternity while the old Sunday School song played repeatedly in my head: “He
went WALKING and LEAPING and praaaising God...” Should I ask to pray for him?
What if he got healed? What if he didn’t? What if he doesn’t speak English?
I quietly sidled up next to him, just waiting for him to
stretch out his hand so I could respond in effect, “silver and gold have I
none, but such as I have give I thee!” But we just sat there in silence and he
ignored me.
Then something curious happened. The skinny young pilgrim
came walking around the corner and sauntered up within 20 feet, looking
somberly up at the sky, at the vast columns and arches, praying under his
breath. The beggar left my side and hobbled over to the pilgrim. In that moment
I ALMOST joined them, but a voice inside me seemed to say, “Just watch. What
you are about to see is just for you.” So I stood, obvious gawking at them.
The beggar walked up to the pilgrim and the young man held
out a fist full of coins to the beggar. But the beggar pushed his hand away and
looked sharply into the face of the younger man, who struggled to make eye contact.
The beggar spoke firmly and deliberately like a father rebuking his son while
the pilgrim gazed into the distance, obviously uncomfortable. Eventually, the
pilgrim slid his hand into his pinstripe suit, quietly withdrew 3 cigarettes
and handed them to the older man. The beggar turned toward me, but then turned
back to say something to the pilgrim as though exhorting him to remember some
important lesson.
I stood 10 feet away staring, watching this fascinating
exchange. The beggar returned to my side and I asked if he spoke English.
“Nyet,” he replied dismissively. Eventually the beggar gathered his things and
slowly hobbled away. Unsure of what to do, I followed him at a distance. But
before I knew it, he stepped around a car and seemed to disappear into thin
air. I just stood awkwardly in the colonnade wondering what had just happened.
(At that moment, I found myself alone in the colonnade with
an African man. He was from Ghana. We struck up a conversation and proceeded to
spend the couple hours together, hanging out at his restaurant, talking about
the Fulani, even praying together. But that’s another story.)
Part of me still wishes I’d had more courage with the beggar
and had taken the risks I wanted to take... even if they were dead ends. But at
the end of the day, I got something important out of what I saw. And I admit,
I’m using a very imaginative interpretation here. But as I watched the two men
interact, I felt the pilgrim was holding up a mirror for me. For me, the
pilgrim became an object lesson in religious devotion.
Clearly, this guy was dedicated to his faith. It was deeply
personal, not just ancient tradition. Yet something deep inside me told me that
this guy was missing it in the worst
way. He looked miserable. I imagined his relationship was not so much with God
as with the idea of God.
And this hits a little too close to home. Because I’m like
that too: naturally spiritual, deeply sincere, self-flagellatingly
faith-filled, muttering prayers to the sky, yet completely missing out on a
real relationship with God. At my worst, I dismissively placate those who
interrupt my religiosity with fists full of relational pocket change while
avoiding their gaze. And though my spiritual sport-coat is full of cigarettes,
I don’t care to loudly admit that yes, I’m exactly like everyone else.
Unexpectedly, my hero in the story was the beggar: that
dirty, craggy-faced beggar who saw through the ethereal façade of the younger
man. In my imagination, the beggar looked into the face of the young man and
said, “Look friend. I don’t want your petty cash. Look here in my face. What
are you searching for? Did you think you would find God in this cathedral? In
the clouds? In your sincerity? You won’t find him there. You’re looking in the
wrong place. Don’t you know that you’re just like me? Give me one of those
cigarettes you’re hiding. Don’t you know that there is more of Jesus in me than
in all these stone columns or even in your spiritual pilgrimage?”
I’m tired of being that emaciated young man, carrying nothing
on my pilgrimage except my perennial spiritual arrogance. I’m tired of looking
for God in all the wrong places.
The other day, I walked down a long dark road in the middle
of the Zambian countryside. It was pitch black and the stars were incredible. I’d
just come back to the dorms from the conference I was attending and I needed
some time alone. I walked out onto the road, gazed up at the stars and started
to cry, eyes wide open. Something was stirring in me. An inexplicable hunger
for something I couldn’t put a finger on. All the fear, confusion, joy,
friendship, inspiration, and wonder of my time in Russia and Zambia seemed to
converge into this shapeless savage yearning. I suppose it was a yearning for
God Himself.
So I fell on my knees, looked up at the sky and prayed, “God
I want more of you. Speak to me. Just speak to me!” And in that moment, an
inaudible but clear voice came back: “Why are you staring at the stars as
though you are going to find me there? You won’t find me there. Am I not inside
you?”
I suddenly remembered the interaction I witnessed between
the beggar and the pilgrim and something clicked in my heart. But I found it a
painful lesson to accept. “God I know you said I would be your vessel, but I
don’t always like this vessel. It’s filthy and I don’t think it suits you.”
“Nevertheless,” the voice replied. “I live inside you. Not
because you’re perfect but because I love you.”
I suppose I’ve begun to understand that I’m not good at
really seeing the places that Jesus
chooses to hang out. It’s not because He’s too mysterious. It’s because I’m too
religious. He spelled it out pretty clearly I think: “Look for me in beggars,
prisoners, and prostitutes. Don’t look for me at church because I’m out at the
bar. Don’t seek me at conferences because I’m joking around with my friends
back at the dorms. Don’t go on pilgrimage to find me because I’m already inside
you.”
So for me, my pilgrimage has started to take a turn: I no
longer want to just float off to heaven... because somehow, I have not yet
found the earth. I haven’t figured out where to put my feet, and how to find
Christ in the ordinary and unexpected. When I figure THAT out, I suspect a few
things will happen: People will no longer be symbols or projects. I will love
more readily. I will accept love from others more quickly. I will be more
comfortable with the idea that God loves me and lives inside me. And I will see
Jesus simply delighting to sit in the dirt with his creation. He’s been
inviting me to come sit there with him. I want to take him up on the offer.